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Jake’s on the Lake at its Finest Hour

Behind an unrefined sign labeled, “The Boatworks Mall” stands a tasteful wooden structure. Situated on the docks of the northwest shore of Lake Tahoe, rests the home of Chef Scott Yorkey’s finest dish, the slow braised beef short ribs. I could not imagine a better place to feature such a treat other than one of Lake Tahoe’s finest grille’s, Jake’s on the Lake

When I walked into the finely furnished inside of Jake’s, I noticed the design was original in its construction. The building screamed ‘classy meets country.’ This combination may sound unattainable, but Jake’s somehow found a way to match the two. The wood below my feet creaked, however the glossy reflection of the wooden walls makes up for the weakened flooring. This place obviously has history.

“Jake’s has been around since 1978,” Hill said. “We have a unique waterfront location. Since the beginning, Jake’s has had the same partnership with Hawaii. Connections to Hawaii and the TS restaurant Group has given us the opportunity to stand out as a waterfront grill. Just recently, in 2005, Jake’s has been independently owned.”

I was fortunate to be seated in a corner. The table was simple, as were the chairs my brother and I sat in. I found nothing fancy about the silverware, or the glasses which held our iced lemon waters. It was the décor on the walls that gave this place such elegance. Paintings of deep-sea oceans and classic sailboats hung in perfect arrangement. Assortments of plants and fine wines marked the center piece. The lighting was dimmed to a subtle glow, but candle-lit center pieces picked up each ounce of darkness. The setting at Jakes was impressively comfortable. Hill said Jakes incorporates informality in its classy environment.

“Jakes is a place where you can order a burger and a filet mignon,” Hill said. “We consider ourselves a friendly informal restaurant. It is hard to come across a place where there are children with their parents and couples selecting from the same menu.”

Speaking of the menu, I noticed the options were slim. The starter section offered five options. Crispy calamari glazed with a sweet and sour sauce and topped with macadamia nut seemed the most appealing versus grilled prawns and deep fried artichoke hearts. Because I encountered a craving for something fresh, I selected Jakes signature apple walnut salad, which was prepared in spinach and topped with goat cheese, candied walnuts and cranberry balsamic. Other options included a traditional caesar salad, New England style clam chowder, seasonal soup (which happened to be minestrone) and a luscious hearts of palm salad sprinkled lightly with hazelnuts and basil vinaigrette. Seven year server Elan Pardee patiently took our order. She was graceful in her presentation of the menu and allowed us several moments before we were ready to select our main dish. My salad looked simple in appearance but was far from it. My plate was filled with rich green spinach that twirled perfectly around my fork. The walnuts were lightly glazed however biting into one was far from a jaw-breaker. The creamy white goat cheese melted in my mouth and dissolved as I went in for another taste. The apple pieces were the size of a quarter yet crisp in texture. What made this salad unique was its tart yet sweet cranberry vinaigrette. It was unlike any dressing I have ever tasted.

“I see you ordered the apple walnut salad,” Hill said as he walked by. “What do think of the vinaigrette?”

“The vinaigrette makes the salad,” I said. “The flavors are very distinct but it’s perfectly paired with the other ingredients.”

“That would be because of our virgin olive oil,” Hill said. “We try to make it as fresh as possible with natural ingredients. Everything is made in the kitchen. Have you thought of your main course?”

I took advantage of Hill’s advice and ordered the slow braised beef short ribs. I could have selected something more traditional like the New York steak, filet mingon and roasted lobster tail or Jake’s herb crusted fresh fish, but I was certain no one knew the menu’s best dishes like the general manager. Even Pardee said this dish sets itself apart from other options.

“The slow braised beef short ribs are an award winning dish,” Pardee said. “This dish is special because of its high quality of ingredients and great preparation. The chef will not give out the exact flavors. I will tell you though that one of the ingredients is mae poi, an ingredient that could be paired with any sauce.”

Jake’s head chef Scott Yorkey was awarded two gold medals and one silver medal at Lake Tahoe’s 2005 Autumn Food & Wine Festival. He strives to incorporate fresh whole foods with flavorful ingredients to deliver energetic dishes.

When Pardee delivered our main course my first impression surpassed my expectations. I soon learned that ingredients scripted on Jake’s menu did not do the actual dish an ounce of justice. Receiving a plate from Jake’s is much like a surprise birthday party. You have an idea of what it may be, however you never know exactly what to expect. All you know is that the surprise surpasses your expectations.

I slowly circled my fork around the plate, trying to make a decision on where to begin. I mean the only ingredient separating the abundance of vegetables from my rib was the bright fire hue of a sweet and sour sauce. Asian inspired flavors glazed over spinach, sweet potatoes and carrots stung my taste buds with zing. Sweet like sugar, but burning with spice, the vegetables crunched gently between my teeth. The multi-dimensioned flavor sat on the back of my tongue until I swished a sip of water. This was the only way to clear my palette from the zest. I could not help but to then slice a piece of beef from my rib. There is a bone? You would never know because I did not even need a knife to cut away a sliver. The beef is drizzled with tang and topped with macadamia nuts and chives- a perfect coupling for flavor. For a place that specializes in fish, this tender cut of heaven surpasses the average steakhouse.

Aside from my order, my brother Garrett opted to try the special for the night. He is not much of a fish eater, however he was highly convinced that because the grille specializes in fish, every option featuring fish must be wonderful. Herb crusted fresh halibut smothered with panko bread crumbs, parmesan and lemon butter sauce paired with capers pleased his fancy. The heavy cream mixed with peas and parmesan tasted like a milky dream. To his liking, he said the halibut tasted more like a nice cut of steak than any fish he tried.

“It just melts in your mouth,” Garrett said.

Primarily I thought arriving late would be an issue. But, the delayed arrival was a blessing in disguise. Late night socializing among guests, the bartender, and the general manager takes place in casualty. I guess this is what Hill meant when he said, “We are a friendly informal restaurant.” Ten in the evening is a time when everyone discards their professional persona and lets loose. Even during social times the staff remains lax yet classy.

But class and signature dishes is Jake’s forte. Like Hill said, “classy and informal” are the terms that define this grille as one of Lake Tahoe’s finest restaurants. Yorkey’s perfectly paired dishes satisfy the hunger and senses of all types. Like Garrett said, “It just melts in your mouth.”